TYPES OF STITCHES USED IN LUCKNOW CHIKANKARI

For generations, adorning and embellishing oneself has been one of the most appealing and passionate occupations undertaken worldwide. With time, the same logic and enthusiasm are transferable to the fabric used to cover the body, and we were introduced to a plethora of new types of art or handicraft aimed at fabric adornment.

Another way to look at its long history is that when humankind first encountered cloth, the necessity to tailor, patch, mend and reinforce cloth fueled the development of sewing techniques. The ornamental potential of sewing spawned the art of sewing embroidery.

Raised surface effects are generated on the flat woven cloth surface using a thread or yarn and a needle, giving it a distinct appearance. Initially, basic stitches such as chain, buttonhole, blanket, running, satin, and cross-stitch were used. Still, over time, various materials such as mirrors, pearls, beads, and so on were also added to create one-of-a-kind creations. Those basic stitches, however, remain the foundational skills of hand embroidery in India today.

India has a diverse spectrum of traditional embroideries from several states that reflect their geographical, cultural, and social influences. Continue reading to learn more about India’s traditional embroidery.

STITCHES

Lucknowi Chikankari is one of its distinctive types of hand embroidery, involving a range of stitching styles that an artisan must learn over many years of hard work. Chikankari or chikan embroidery techniques necessitate discipline and attention to detail in their execution. As a result, this art cannot be unstealable anywhere. Chikankari has 32 stitches. However, one can broadly group them into six main groups, and all but one are common to other forms of needlework.

1. Tepchi is a long-running or darning stitch made on the right side of the fabric with six strands taken over four threads and picking up one. As a result, a line is produced. It is primarily useful as a foundation for additional stitchery and, sometimes, to construct a simple shape.
2. In chikan work, bakhiya, double back, or shadow stitch are done on the flip side of the fabric, and the design is portrayed in the herringbone style. On the right side, the thread’s shadow can be seen through the cloth.
3. Hool is a detachable aperture stitch. A hole is pierced in the fabric, and the threads are teased apart in this technique. It is then held in place with tiny straight stitches all around and worked on the right side of the fabric with one thread. It is usually worked with six strands and forms the core of a flower.
4. Zanzeera is a short-chain stitch done on the right side of the fabric with one thread. Because it is so fine, it is utilized to finalize the contour of the leaf or petal patterns after one or more outlines have been developed.
5. Rahet is a stem stitch done on the wrong side of the fabric with six threads. It makes a solid line of backstitch on the right side of the cloth and is unusually used in its simple form but is commonly employed as an outline stitch in the double form of dohra Bakhiya.
6. Banarsi stitch, a twisted stitch made with six strands on the right side of the fabric, has no European equivalent. A little stitch is taken across about two threads vertically while working from the right over around five threads. The needle is reinserted midway along and below the produced horizontal stitch and removed around two threads vertically on the right above the preceding stitch.
7. Khatau is a type of applique that is similar to Bakhia but finer. The design is created on calico material in Khatau. This is applied to the finished fabric’s surface, and then paisley and floral motifs are stitched on top of it.
8. Phanda and Murri are stitches used to embroider the center of flowers in traditional chikankari designs. Murri is rice-shaped, whereas phanda is millet-shaped, and they are often French knots.
9. Jali stitch is distinguished by the fact that the thread is never dragged through the cloth, guaranteeing that the back of the garment looks as good as the front. The warp and weft threads are separated with care, and tiny buttonhole stitches are put into the cloth.
10. Turpai and Darzdari, often known as Darazdari, are essential stitches in the chikan technique. Turpai should have the appearance of a thin thread. Darzdari comes in a variety of variants, the most prominent of which are Kohidarz, Kamal Darz, Shankarpara Darz, Muchii, and Sign Bhada Darz.
11. Other famous Chikankari stitches include Pechani, Bijli, Ghaspatti, Makra, Kauri, Hathkadi, Banjkali, Sazi, Karan, Kapkapi, Madrazi, Bulbul-chasm, Taj Mahal, Janjeera, Kangan, Dhania- Patti, Rozan, Meharki, Chanapatti, Baalda, Jora, Keel Kangan, bulbul, Sidhaul,
12. Tone-on-tone embroidery is popular these days, deviating from the original clean setting. Beads, sequins, mokaish or mukeish (white flat silver or golden strip embroidery), Gota Patti, pearls, and other embellishments have become popular.

FABRIC

Colored fabrics and threads are utilized in addition to the white base cloth. For embroidered work on sarees, dupattas, table linen, kurtas, silk, and cotton threads are used. Chikankari is most commonly done on cotton, although one can also do it on mulls/malmal, maslins, voiles, organzas, and polyester. Chiffon, viscose, georgette, polyester georgette, cotton crepe, and net are a few more. The patterns change every other month to reflect market trends, with colors that complement the season.

As manufacturers, we are glad to declare that we employ the best patterns and a range of stitches to create one-of-a-kind things. So, before you go, visit The Priya Chaudhary Label and check our Fiza and Megh Malhar collections.

Source: Types Of Stitches Used In Lucknow Chikankari